Pressure Washing Tips

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Pressure washing using a pressure washer or sometimes commonly called a power washer. This is a mechanical device that uses high-pressure water to remove mold, grime, dust mud and dirt from surfaces and objects such as buildings, vehicles and concrete road surfaces. Equipment can be rented or bought that produces pressures of 4000 PSI (around 276 bar) or more.

The most basic pressure washer consists of:

• a motor which directly drives a water pump
• high pressure hose
• trigger gun

Just like a garden hose nozzle is used to increase the outflowing pressure of the liquid, this machine adds its own power to force high pressure, when a regular nozzle would slow the flow, due to its restricting nature. Note that the pump does not draw more water from the pipe to which the washer is connected than that source can provide; therefore, the water supply must be adequate for a given machine to be connected to it: its flow must be equal, and should be superior, to that of the washer, so that the pump never be starved.

Several different types of nozzles are available, each useful for a particular application. Some nozzles cause the water jet to be ejected in a triangular plane, while others emit a pencil-thin jet of water, which spirals around rapidly. Most nozzles attach directly to the trigger gun.

Some pressure washers, in combination with a particular nozzle, allow detergent to be introduced into the water stream, assisting in the cleaning process. Two types of chemical injectors are available, a low-pressure injector and a high pressure injector.

Pressure washers are dangerous tools, and should be operated with due regard to safety instructions. The water pressure near the nozzle is powerful enough to strip flesh from bone. Objects in the water supply can be ejected from the nozzle at great velocities. The cleaning process can propel objects from the surface being cleaned, also at great velocities. Pressure washers have a tendency to break up asphalt if aimed directly at it, due to high pressure water entering cracks and voids in the surface.

Most readily available consumer units (commonly found either online or at hardware stores) are electric or gas powered. The electric ones plug into a normal outlet, and use/produce cold water. Some models can generate hot water, which can be ideal for loosening and removing oil and grease.

Let's start off by going through a quick checklist of the Do's and Don'ts of pressure washing:

• Do not stick your hand in front of the nozzle or point it at people. The blast is so powerful, it can literally tear the skin off your hand.
• Do wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying paint chips and debris. Also wear a raincoat - you'll be getting wet!
• Do not pressure-wash off a ladder - you'll need both hands to control the wand (when you turn it on, it has a hefty kickback, which can kick you off balance). Instead, use an adjustable extension wand to reach high places.
• Do not hold the nozzle too close to the surface or too long in one spot - the strong jet will gouge wood, dent aluminum side, erode stucco, and blast mortar out of joints in brick walls. Likewise, do not point the wand directly at windows, for obvious reasons.
• Do keep the wand and water jet at least 6 ft. away from electrical wires, service boxes and entrances. A shock from service wires can be deadly.
• Do not use a pressure washer as a paint prep tool if the exterior paint contains lead. If your home was built before 1978, or you're not sure if the paint contains lead, have it tested. Hire a licensed abatement contractor to strip the paint and dispose of it properly.
• Be careful when pressure washing hardboard siding, as it is more susceptible to water penetration than other types, and is harder to fix, should you gouge it. Also, do not use a pressure washer to wash a roof - the process is not only dangerous, but can knock loose shingles and strip the mineral coating from asphalt roofing. If your roof has a buildup of algae or moss, hire a professional roof washer, who will agree to do the job with a low-pressure hose-end sprayer or similar tool.

Pressure Washing Siding

Before you start, seal off all soffit and foundation vents, electrical outlets, and leaky doors or windows with lightweight plastic sheeting and duct tape. Cover porch lamps and similar fixtures with plastic bags sealed with duct tape. If you're using a cleaning solution, also cover large shrubs, and wet down smaller plants before you start. Lay down drop cloths to catch paint chips, if necessary.

Start washing on the shady side of the house. Use a wide, low-pressure nozzle to apply soap and a narrower one for rinsing.

Position the nozzle about 3 to 4 ft away from the surface. Move the wand in sweeping, side-to-side strokes. Apply the cleaner, working from the bottom up, finishing with the soffits and gutters.

Before the surface dries, switch to the narrower nozzle and rinse, this time from the top down. Angle the spray away from windows, doors, and other openings. Try to keep the nozzle pointed downward. Avoid blasting water directly into cracks.

Scrub stubborn spots with a long-handled bristle brush, or brush attachment fitted to the washer. Use an extension wand to reach high places.

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